I’ve finished my first vacation in a long time and I’m feeling pretty damn good! I feel genuinely decompressed from work and life and I’m ready to get cracking on these next few months ahead with a renewed sense of vigor.
So, a week ago, I left for Corsica, and to put simply, my visit there was relaxing, fun and filled with little pleasures appearing around every corner. I mostly stayed in Bastia which is the capitol of Corsica and is an old port city stuck between the sea and the mountains. It’s a very small city and most of the buildings have not been taken care of in decades. Everywhere you walk, façades are crumbling and spider webs of phone lines, power lines and laundry line paint over the cracks and chips. While decay of this kind might have a negative connotation with normal people, Julie and I agree that there is a certain beauty to this decay. It gives it character. It’s the opposite of sterile and clean and new. It’s old and rustic and crumbling and forgotten. Corsica’s an interesting place, actually. Despite the fact that it’s a part of France, you never really hear about it. Instead you tend to hear more about France’s other outer-continental conquests like Algeria, Morocco, Martinique, Haiti, etc etc. Corsica, despite being closer geographically and politically than all of these other places, is just this entity, 1/13th the size of Ohio, floating in the middle of the Mediterranean. This old, forgotten piece of furniture in the attic hidden behind a wall of boxes.

Even the people are different. They do not strike me as French even though they speak French, watch French television and movies dubbed in French; listen to French music, etc. Despite this linguistic link, they are a population à part. They seem hardened and weathered. Open and jovial but at the same time reserved and cautious towards strangers. The difference between the populations really hit me when I came back to Lyon and everyone on the mainland just seemed so...soft. When I first arrived on Corsica last week, Julie took me to a drumming circle she attends where a bunch of people around our age get together to bang on various homemade percussion instruments to play Brazilian drumming music. I got to bang a pot with a drumstick and we rehearsed a number for a couple hours. Later that evening, we went out to a bar where half of the people in the group were very nice and very open (Men will greet each other with the bise here in Corsica. Something that’s reserved between very close bonds like Father and Son on the continent) and the other half would barely even talk despite efforts on my part to say hi. This weird dichotomy between the friendly, carefree Mediterranean stereotype and the cautious native of an island that’s been fought over and battled over for centuries made my head turn a bit as I soon became unsure of how to act and react around this population.
While I had a lot of time to spend observing and pondering the lives on these people on this island, it’s important to note that fun was had as well. Despite Julie still being at work, we managed to do so many things. There was the drum circle night and a Valentine’s day party the following night with the same group of people. We took a bus to Erbalunga, a small village north of Bastia that has a historical watchtower that normally has no public access inside, but Julie and I hiked to the shortest wall facing the ocean and climbed up the wall and into the tower and then walked up to the top where we could see the coast for miles and miles.
We’ve also had a ton of dinner nights here at Julie’s with her colleague Anne-Sophie, one being a raclette dinner in which we just stuffed ourselves with melted cheese on potatoes, ham, prosciutto, bread and wine. Speaking of which, Anne-Sophie has become my new French best friend. We go off on tirades talking about movies, TV and books (mostly about Dune, a book I’m reading at the moment and she’s a huge fan of the series) and I was sad that we got to spend so little time together. Oh well, there’s always Facebook. Ha?
The rest of our spare time was spent chilling out max and watching episodes of “In Treatment” and reading and hiking around the different small villages surrounding Bastia. We didn’t stray very far and we didn’t have an itinerary of places and things to do or see. We just existed as normal people for a week, as the good friends we are and what more could you ask for out of a vacation?
Not much at all.